
Gold
For thousands of years, gold’s easy workability, sensuous feel, and enduring beauty have made it the world’s most treasured metal. It has been used not just for adornment, but as symbols of wealth and power. The mid-19th century gold rushes in California and Australia ushered in a new era of gold supply, making it available to a much wider market.
In its pure form, gold is very soft and bendable, and not practical for everyday use.
To produce jewelry that is affordable and wearable, gold is combined with other metals in a process called alloying, creating what is known as karat gold. The karat system is based on 24 “parts” or units of weight. 18 karat gold is 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts alloy, 14 karat gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy, and so on. Gold alloys used in the United States normally range from 18K to 10K, and jewelry should have a karat stamp or purity mark to let you know the metal’s gold content.
Besides improving wearability, alloying gives gold different colors. Most gold is alloyed with copper and silver, and equal parts of these two metals produce yellow gold. Increasing the ratio of copper results in pink or rose gold, and increasing the proportion of silver creates a green hue. White gold usually contains palladium (a metal related to platinum) plus zinc and nickel. These color options create exciting opportunities to match gold hues with individual complexions, wardrobe colors, and fashion trends!
For more information about the history and current uses of gold, you may visit the World Gold Council web site at www.gold.org.
Platinum
Although platinum is sometimes called a “new metal”, it has been around much longer than most people think. Ceremonial jewelry using platinum was made by ancient South America cultures as early as 100 BC, but then the metal seems to have been forgotten for thousands of years. It reappears in the palaces of European royalty in the 18th century, and was called the only metal fit for kings by King Louis XVI of France. In the United States, platinum was declared a strategic metal for use in World War II, and its use for making jewelry was forbidden between 1939 and 1945. In the post-war era, platinum’s popularity was rekindled, and it has remained a favorite of jewelers, celebrities, and knowledgeable consumers to the present day.
It is true that platinum can be more expensive than gold, but ounce for ounce, it delivers great value. Platinum is a pure white metal. It does not have to be alloyed or dyed to achieve its bright white color, and it will not tarnish or discolor. Platinum is pure. While the alloying process for today’s gold jewelry results in 58% - 75% gold content, platinum jewelry is generally 90% - 95% pure platinum. Platinum is a strong, dense metal. Its density slows down wear and tear, making it a wonderful choice to hold diamonds securely. Platinum is hypoallergenic. This is especially good news for those who are allergic to nickel, which is often found in white and yellow gold.
Silver
Silver has been a part of human culture for at least 4,500 years. In ancient Egypt, silver was actually more rare and valuable than gold! Until the 18th century, it was the only white precious metal, and was used in the settings of even the most magnificent gems.
Like gold, silver is alloyed for use in jewelry. Most U.S. manufacturers use sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Silver is comparatively hard, and can take the brightest polish of any metal. It is less dense than other metals, making it a good choice for large, solid jewelry designs that might otherwise be too heavy to wear comfortably. Many contemporary jewelry designers are creating beautiful combinations of sterling silver with diamonds, colored gems, and even pearls.
One of silver’s traditional liabilities is tarnish, which is a chemical reaction caused by contact with sulfur in the air or from other sources. However, today’s manufacturing processes reduce the tendency to tarnish and special cleaning formulas make it easy to remove.